When my grandfather, John H. McIntyre, died in 1945, my father, Raymond McIntyre, took over the operation of his general store in Elizaville, Kentucky. It was a going concern.
For one thing, Elizaville, population about 100, was on the road from Maysville to Lexington. Travelers would stop at the store for cheese, cold cuts, and snacks because of the lack of restaurants along the highway. On Saturdays, people from outlying farms would come to the store to shop and socialize. My older sister remembers that my father and Eugene Wood, who owned the general store across the street, would compete for customers by hiring musicians on Saturday nights.
All that is gone. When U.S. 68 between Maysville and Lexington was built, much of the automobile traffic dried up. The early supermarkets in Flemingsburg, the county seat, had a broader array of stock that drew away the customers. Today both general stores in Elizaville have been closed for years, though in the past year a Dollar Store opened in town.
I am reminded of this lost era by the furor on over Cracker Barrel's rebranded logo.
Cracker Barrel is a chain of restaurants trafficking in manufactured nostalgia. Customers enter and leave the restaurant through a shop brimming with tacky tchotchkes. The menu in the restaurant evokes the plain country cooking of the remembered (and imagined) past. Once, years ago, I got a perfectly good slice of country ham with my eggs. Two years ago when I ate at another Cracker Barrel, country ham was no longer on the menu and I had to wonder why anyone would patronize a restaurant that could not competently bake a potato.
The old logo included a man in a chair leaning on a barrel; the revised logo simply displays the words "Cracker Barrel," and there lies the source of the outrage.
The person leaning on the barrel in the old logo is an older white man, and his removal feeds into white people's apprehension of being overtaken by non-whites, their dominant culture diminished and supplanted.
And so it goes. The demographics are clear: White people are well on the way to becoming a minority in the U.S. population, and it is a fantasy that the Trump administration can deport enough non-whites and right-wing influencers can gin up enough of a white population boom to counter these trends. Establishing some kind of apartheid might be attempted, but South Africa already tried that and we know how it came out. The current administration is addicted to performative stunts to intimidate non-whites and prop up white people's shaky sense of self, but stunts wear off fast and new ones have to be concocted.
White people have been leaving the country for the cities over the past century, and our culture is coming out of the city rather than the farm. Black people have been here for five centuries and are not going away. Brown people are here doing the kinds of work that white people don't care to do, and won't do. A return to the white-dominant culture of the 1950s cannot be imposed from above and is not going to happen.
If Cracker Barrel is the best you can come up with to exemplify and defend your values, you need to get out more.